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Lovina, Bali © Judith Duk
Overview: On Bali's north coast, Lovina resort stretches along several kilometres of black volcanic coastline, encompassing six villages, with Kalibukbuk the established tourist centre. Although the second largest resort outside of the Kuta region, it is not as developed as the south of the island, but it has a rural charm, and guesthouses are prettily situated on the beach or among the rice fields. Ducks, pigs and chickens scratch in the fields and cattle wander along the roads. Colourful Balinese boats take tourists out to see the sociable dolphins, most active at sunrise, and the reef-protected waters provide a calm environment for snorkelling. Situated between the main diving sites on the north coast of Bali, Lovina is a good base for diving excursions. Bali's only Buddhist monastery, Brahma Vihara Arama, is a few kilometres away and can be combined with a visit to the delightful setting of the Air Panas hot springs at Banjar.
Shopping: Lovina is actually a string of small villages strung along the coast, centred on the main town, Kalibukbuk. Here there is a western-style shopping centre and a variety of souvenir shops, where plenty of Balinese beachwear and tourist necessities are available. For serious shopping make excursions to the south, and to the villages where local craftsmen produce stone and woodcarvings, and jewellery designs.Restaurants: Don't expect to find any gourmet establishments in Lovina, but Kalibukbuk has plenty of good value budget restaurants catering for the tourist trade, most of them serving up a combination of western and Indonesian cuisine. Rijsstafel buffets are popular and special deals abound, as do 'happy hours'. One of the most popular restaurants with visitors is the Biyu Nasak, with a varied assortment on its menu from vegetarian and seafood dishes to hamburgers and toasted sandwiches.
Nightlife: In Lovina nightlife is confined to entertainment provided at the hotels, especially shadow puppet shows. There are some cosy bars in town where you can enjoy a cocktail or a local Bintang beer and live music. Some even offer discos on Friday nights.
Activities: Lovina's main attractions are the magical underwater world that exists just off of its black volcanic sand beaches, and the myriad dolphins that frolic offshore. Locals have taken advantage of these and offer scuba diving and snorkelling expeditions, as well as dolphin-viewing boat trips. Hotels usually make arrangements for these, as well as fishing or other watersport activities. The adjacent interior is ideal for hiking, especially in the West Bali National Park.
Activities
Cruising via Pelni:
An expensive, but unique way to travel in style is onboard the Pelni Ferry lines. They crisscross the island nation to all major towns. There are several classes of tickets although lower decks are not a pleasant way to travel. Think heat, smoke, animals, and no privacy. Top classes share a clean four bed cabin with bathroom. Meals are served in a small formal dining room complete with entertainment. The dishes are not western but a K(kalafornia)FC sells fried chicken and vendors sell many other dishes. A rooftop café sells quick eats and most wile out the day there sipping coffee and singing karaoke. Tourists quickly become novelties so expect many friends, conversation, and free coffee. The ferry stops in each port for a few hours which is enough time for a quick look around. For a real show of motivation watch the ruckus as couriers fight to be the first on decks. First class tickets are often more expensive than air tickets and travel time is much longer. But ferry travel is a timeless chance to experience the islands and meet the many different cultures of Indonesian passengers.
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