
Surrounded by turquoise blue waters and sandy white beaches, the
British territory and volcanic island of Ascension is named after
the day of its recorded discovery. This tropical and very remote
destination steeped in history was initially discovered in 1501 by
Portuguese seafarer Joao da Nova Castelia, only to be rediscovered
two years later on Ascension Day by Alphonse d'Albuquerque.
Ascension Island remained uninhabited until 1815 when Emperor
Napoleon I was incarcerated on St Helena and ownership of the
island was taken over by the British when they established a naval
garrison. It later became a place of quarantine when the HMS
Bonetta brought her yellow fever victims here in 1838, many of whom
went on to be buried at the aptly named Comfortless Cove. Today it
is a popular place for relaxation and a pleasant shelter against
big waves for swimmers and a small cemetery named after the ship
can be found here, providing testimony of this era.
Turtle tracks in the beaches' sand are a common sight on
Ascension Island, known for its green turtles, which come ashore
from January to May to lay their eggs. Despite being home to over
44 dormant volcanic craters, this arid island comes with a soft
centre, namely the Green Mountain National Park. The 3,000-foot
(914m) Green Mountain radiates a verdant halo shaped by the
abundance of bamboo encircling its higher ground. Lower down lies
the perfect material for building sailing ship masts; a plantation
of tall Norfolk pine trees, originally planted by British mariners
for that exact purpose, should the need arise of course. Wild
flowers flourish sparsely while large colonies of land crabs can be
found scuttling through the brush on the mountainside.
Most visitors to Ascension Island find themselves in the capital
and port of Georgetown, one of the five main settlements and home
to all four of the island's pubs, each with their own peculiar
opening and closing times. Among some of the town's historic sites
are a small Roman Catholic church, the 'Grotto', and the remains of
a mosque, which served Muslims from West Africa in the early days
of occupation.
Ascension Island may be small, but there is plenty to keep the
active tourist busy with numerous walks, scuba diving
opportunities, and a wide variety of sports including golf, albeit
on one of the world's official worst golf courses. Sea fishing is
also a popular pastime with a wonderful variety of open-ocean fish,
including sharks, wahoo, tuna, marlin and sailfish.
Flights to Ascension Island are operated by the Royal Air Force,
with only a limited number of civilian passengers allowed per
flight. The Royal Mail Ship Saint Helena also travels between
Portland, Tenerife, Ascension Island, Saint Helena, Walvis Bay and
Cape Town. A shuttle service runs between Saint Helena and
Ascension Island.